During my last trip to Boston, I was staying conveniently across the street from the Central Public Library on Boylston Street in Copley Square. Completed in 1895, the Central Library Building is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is designated a National Historic Landmark.
The Central Public Library is also known as the McKim Building after the building’s architect, Charles Follen McKim. I, initially, only went to see the Bates Reading Room (above). However, I spent more time there than expected because it was so gorgeous at every turn—up, down, left, right.
Lobby
After walking through the main entrance, look up at the vaulted ceilings. They are clad in mosaic tiles and include the names of famous Massachusetts statesmen such as Franklin, Emerson and Adams. Italian immigrants living in the North End neighborhood of Boston performed this intricate and detailed work.
Grand Staircase
After passing through the lobby, walk up the grand staircase, constructed of Siena marble. Looking down the stairs, is the view of the lobby. Look up and see gorgeous chandeliers and a perfect coffered ceiling (#obsessed). Surrounding the second story of this area are murals by the French artist, Pierre Puvis de Chavannes.
Since the library’s opening in 1895, two gigantic unpolished marble lions sit regally on either side of the Grand Staircase. One lion is a monument to the Second Volunteer Infantry of the Civil War and the other is a monument to the Twentieth. They were funded by surviving members of the regiments and created by Louis Saint-Gaudens.
Look Up
I spent a bit of time in the stairwell admiring the ceiling murals and lighting. In this small space, I appreciated the attention to detail of every single square inch of this building. The colors of the ceilings, the texture of the stone, the shape of the arches and vaulted ceilings, the dim of the lights—everything fit together perfectly.
Bates Hall
Bates Hall is the main reading room on the second floor of the Central Library. I had seen many photos of the space on-line and it was the catalyst for me coming here. It was as grand and as gorgeous as I expected it to be with its 50 foot tall barrel vault coffered ceiling.
Sargent Gallery
I then stopped in the Sargent Gallery on the third floor, named after the artist John Singer Sargent. The theme of the work is Triumph of Religion, with one wall representing Synagogue and the other representing Church. Sargent spent 29 years working on it, but died in 1925 before completing the final panel.
Courtyard
Before I left, I stepped outside to the courtyard. In the middle of the courtyard’s fountain is a bronze statue, Bacchante and Infant Faun, by Frederick MacMonnies. Unveiled in 1896, the statue of a nude woman celebrating drinking while holding a child caused quite the stir in Boston. I suppose it is an interesting choice for a library.
In 1897, responding to the uproar, the statue was given to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. As with many things, the controversy drove sales of small replicas of the statue. Years later, the Boston Public Library commissioned a copy of the original which stands in the courtyard today.
Final Thoughts
I thought the Central Library Building was incredible. I had the luxury of being there not because I was researching a paper, studying for finals or any other stress-inducing activity. For me, it was very peaceful and calm.
The building is open to the public and admission is free. Even if you’re not into libraries, just stop in to have a look. At the very least, just go rub a lion’s tail for good luck. Apparently, it’s a thing and we could all use a little luck sometimes.
