The Real Housewives Changed My Life
About five years ago, I was a watching the Real Housewives of New York City. Bethenny Frankel stated that she was allergic to fish with fins, but not shellfish and I thought, “Maybe that’s me, too.” I had tried salmon in the past, but my throat got itchy and my lips swelled up (not in a good way). We would soon be spending a week in Bar Harbor and after an allergy test, maybe I could be eating lobster in Maine. I scheduled the test as soon as I could and soon after my arms were lightly injected with different strains of mold, weeds, etc., the results were in. Yes, I am allergic to tuna, cod and salmon, but I am not allergic to shellfish. Life changing.
I had my first lobster at the Lobster Shack in Perkins Cove, Ogunquit. Fortunately, I was receiving step by step instructions on how to tackle it, otherwise, I would have no idea how to eat this thing. I hesitated with every bite, though, because I couldn’t help think that maybe the allergy test was wrong. Lobster is one of the most common last-meal requests of death row inmates—what if it were my last meal? I had no other choice but to keep trying and get past this fear of eating lobster.
Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner
With an abundance of lobster, Mainers have figured out ways to use it in everything and at every meal. We stopped at the Maine Diner in Wells for breakfast. I ordered lobster Benedict on gluten-free bread, which was really good, but I still couldn’t get past the mental part.
After spending time on Bailey Island, we stopped at the Salt Cod Cafe on Orrs Island for lunch. I went with the lobster salad in a romaine lettuce leaf (gluten-free version of a lobster roll). It was really good, really fresh and sitting on the dock overlooking Harpswell Sound was just lovely.
Soon after we arrived to our home away from home in Lamoine, we headed off to Bar Harbor to see the sites and grab dinner at the Side Street Cafe. Side Street is one of my favorite spots because they have a great menu with lots of lobster, Mexican-inspired dishes, sandwiches, salads and great cocktails. There is also an outdoor seating area where your four-legged family members are welcome.
I had the gluten-free lobster mac and cheese, which was amazing. This was the half-portion, which was so big that it took me three days to finish it. This is the dish that put my mind at ease and I finally conquered my fear of eating lobster.
On another visit to Side Street, I ordered the lobster Cobb salad, which was so fresh and hearty. I used the dressing for the vegetables, but the lobster needed nothing at all.
Five Islands Lobster, Georgetown
One of my favorite places in Maine is Five Islands. The scenery is absolutely beautiful and Five Islands Lobster is so amazing. The lobster is, literally, right out of the water. You can also order fries, onion rings, burgers, hot dogs, ice cream, etc, and it’s BYOB.
I really love the surroundings at Five Islands. We drive out there even if we’re not going to eat. A couple of summers ago, we were headed home to Pennsylvania and we took an hour detour so I could take some photos without all the crowds. It was about 8 in the morning, there was a layer of fog on the water and all you could hear were the motors of the boats in Sheepscot Bay. Five Islands was the perfect setting for Bailey’s holiday card that year, which is still my favorite one.
Royal River Grill House, Yarmouth
Another favorite restaurant is the Royal River Grill House in Yarmouth, near Freeport (home of L.L. Bean). It is cozy, designed beautifully and the food is delicious. This is one of the few places I’ve included here that is open all year-round, but it does close at 9pm like many places in Maine.
On one night we were there, I had lobster stew that had huge chunks of lobster. My entree was grilled steamed lobster and a basket of truffle fries for an appetizer. The truffle fries are a must at Royal River as they are crisp on the outside, soft on the inside and perfectly seasoned. I may, or may not, have eaten the entire basket…
Let’s Taco About It
A great place for breakfast, brunch or lunch in Rockland is the Home Kitchen Cafe. They serve breakfast and lunch all day. Home’s menu relies on local and seasonal products and many items on their menu are made from scratch, including their breads and sweets. Lots of gluten-free options are available. I had these lobster tacos on handmade corn tortillas, which were so good! The lobster was so fresh and melted in your mouth.
Thurston’s Lobster Pound, Bernard
If you’re heading up to Bar Harbor, it’s worth making a stop at Thurston’s Lobster Pound in Bernard on Mount Desert Island. Like Five Islands Lobster, Thurston’s lobster is fresh off the boat and the scenery is just breathtaking. The hot lobster dip is delicious and you can get it gluten-free with tortilla chips for dipping instead of pita bread. Dogs are welcome on the outside deck. Since I had a fidgety Boston Terrier to mind, I had the lobster salad that only required one hand to eat. The lobster was so fresh and tender, it didn’t need much dressing at all.
On a Roll
If you’re going to see Portland Head Light, look for the Bite Into Maine food truck on Cape Elizabeth. They serve different variations of the lobster roll, including Connecticut-style with melted butter. Maine-style lobster rolls are tossed with mayonnaise and I got mine with wasabi mayo. It had a really nice kick to it and I would definitely get it again. They also serve lobster grilled cheese, lobster BLTs, pulled pork sandwiches and chowders, as part of their menu.
Perhaps one of the most well-known lobster roll places in Maine is Red’s Eats in Wiscassett on Route 1. In business for over 80 years, Red’s lobster rolls really are amazing. We were in Maine before tourist season was in full swing, so we were able to walk right up and order without waiting in a huge line. Depending on when you go, you could be waiting for 90 minutes. The staff are really sweet and serve lemonade while you’re in line and the food at Red’s is really worth the wait. I order the lobster roll on gluten-free bread with a side of fries. I eat all the lobster first, on which I put a little fresh lemon juice to brighten it up. I’m usually too full to eat the bread, but since it tastes like it was dipped in a pound of melted butter, I can’t help myself. If you have room, get some Maine blueberry cake for dessert. Red’s is dog-friendly and the staff will bring treats and a bowl of water for your pooch while you dine.
Final Thoughts
In the early 17th century, lobster was so plentiful that early settlers in New England considered it trash food. Lobsters would wash up on the beach two feet deep and eating lobster was by the less fortunate, slaves and prison inmates as a cheap source of protein. In fact, prisons were only allowed to serve inmates lobster a maximum of three times a week because they considered eating lobster “cruel and unusual punishment”. With the development of cities like New York and Boston and better means of travel, lobsters were able to shed their bad reputation by the late 19th century and eating lobster was acceptable. The first lobster pound was started in 1875 on the island of Vinalhaven, Maine where lobstering is still very important.
Today, lobster is considered a delicacy and is an integral part of the Maine food scene and Maine’s economy. I’m happy to do my part to support it.
Many of the places I’ve included here are only open seasonally, so be sure to check their websites for opening/closing dates if you’re planning a trip to Maine.